A diver's guide to the British Virgin Islands: the RMS Rhone, Norman Island, Anegada and more.

The remote BVI

Anegada Diving Horseshoe Reef

Anegada diving is different from anywhere else in the BVI. The island is flat, made of coral and limestone, and wrapped in Horseshoe Reef, which has wrecked ships for centuries. It is remote, quiet and well worth the extra planning.

  • 18 miof barrier reef
  • 1808HMS Astrea wrecked
Illustration of a diver swimming beside a green sea turtle over sand in the BVI

The island

A flat island in a reef

Every other island in the BVI is volcanic and hilly. Anegada, about 15 miles north of Virgin Gorda, is a low island of coral and limestone whose highest point is only around 28 feet above the sea. Its name is thought to come from the Spanish for "drowned land", and from a boat it barely shows above the horizon.

The island is known for its long white beaches, its salt ponds with flamingos, the rare Anegada rock iguana and fresh lobster. Fewer than 300 people live there, so it feels very different from busy Tortola.

The reef

Horseshoe Reef

Horseshoe Reef runs for about 18 miles from Anegada's south-east corner, making it one of the largest barrier reefs in the Caribbean. It is home to elkhorn and brain coral, rays, turtles, nurse sharks and big schools of reef fish.

The same shallow reef that makes the diving so good has made it one of the most dangerous stretches of water in the region. Hundreds of ships have been lost on it, and much of the reef is now protected, with restrictions on anchoring and fishing.

History under water

Shipwrecks of Horseshoe Reef

Most of Anegada's wrecks are old and broken up, lying in shallow water where storms have scattered them. Expect anchors, cannon, ballast stones and ribs rather than whole hulls.

HMS Astrea (1808)

A British Royal Navy frigate that struck Horseshoe Reef in 1808. Her remains, including cannon and anchors, lie scattered over the reef in shallow water.

The Paramatta (1859)

A Royal Mail steamship lost on Horseshoe Reef on her first voyage in 1859. Parts of her machinery and hull can still be seen in shallow water.

Illustration of a diver swimming past coral pinnacles at a BVI dive site

Planning Anegada diving

Anegada is the hardest part of the BVI to dive, and that keeps it unspoiled. Most dive operators are based on Tortola and Virgin Gorda, and trips to Anegada's reef are occasional and depend on calm seas. Ask operators ahead of your trip whether they run Anegada dives, and be flexible with your dates.

Sailors on charter yachts can reach Anegada and pick up a mooring off Setting Point, but the approach across shallow water calls for careful navigation in good light. Check your charter company's rules first; see BVI yacht charter diving for more on diving from your own boat.

If you cannot dive the reef, Anegada's beaches still have some of the best snorkeling in the territory. Loblolly Bay on the north shore has coral close to the beach, and on calm days the water is very clear. See more spots in our BVI snorkeling guide.

Respect the reef. Horseshoe Reef is protected. Do not anchor on coral, stand on the reef or take anything from the wrecks.

Combining Anegada with the classic central dives? Read our guides to the RMS Rhone and the other BVI wrecks, and check the best time to dive the BVI for calm-weather months.

Anegada diving FAQ

Can you dive Anegada's Horseshoe Reef?

Yes, but trips are occasional and weather-dependent, because the reef is remote and exposed. Plan ahead and ask operators on Tortola and Virgin Gorda.

How many shipwrecks are around Anegada?

Hundreds of ships are thought to have been lost on Horseshoe Reef over the centuries. Most are broken up in shallow water.

Is Anegada good for snorkeling?

Very. Loblolly Bay and other north-shore beaches have reef close to shore and clear water on calm days.

Anegada beyond the reef

Anegada rewards those who stay a night or two. Its salt ponds are home to flamingos that were reintroduced to the island, and its interior shelters the Anegada rock iguana, one of the rarest lizards in the world, which is protected by a breeding and conservation programme. The island's long, empty beaches, such as Loblolly Bay and Cow Wreck Beach, are among the finest in the Caribbean.

Facilities are limited compared with Tortola or Virgin Gorda. Bring what you need for diving and snorkeling, including your own mask, fins and reef-safe sunscreen, and carry cash in case card machines are down. Shade is scarce on the beaches and the sun is strong, so pack a hat and a rash guard.

Above all, be patient with the weather. The reef is shallow and exposed, and the people who know it best will only take divers out when conditions are right.

Plan the rest of your dives

From the Rhone to Norman Island, see every area of the BVI.

BVI dive sites